The Kerala Backwaters Tour

I only recently transcribed the following back-dated post from my moleskine. (does that sound pretentious? sorry)

To start, an 11-hour cab ride is no picnic, even if we did pack a loaf of bread. Averaging just over 20 mph due to potholes, all I could think was "This place better be heaven."

And it was. (End Suspense)

We arrived in the town of Alappuzzha at a boat launch called "Finishing Point" excited to start. It was 8 AM and we weren't scheduled to sail until 11, so we searched for some breakfast.
Alappuzzha reminded me of a lakeside cottage community in Michigan: narrow, maze-like roads lined with high shrubbery and fences dividing one private life from another.
We pulled into the gate of a very cool villa of a hotel. There was a small patio, a wooden rope swing, and the main cottage where a few random guests could be seen sleeping through open doors and windows. We noticed a few young Europeans staying there who looked like real world-traveler types. You'd have to be, I guess, because we soon found out they only had a squatter toilet. We ate, drank coffee, and played a few hands of cards before heading to the boat.

A long, beautifully-crafted wood and canvas structure was ready for boarding. Our captain & cook excitedly introduced themselves, then fired up the motor. The boat was 103 feet long, with a kitchen in the back followed by 3 bedrooms with flush (but where?) toilets, and then a large common area. There is a full pirate-style steering wheel in the front.
Our first meal was served quickly: fried, fresh fish ("sea fish" the cook responded to our query) with local rice (fields line the canals) and vegetable curries. It was very tasty, and a lot less spicy than the dishes of Karnataka. Sliced, sweet-and-tart pineapple followed for dessert.

We spent the afternoon, beer in hand, in awe of the beauty of the scene: palm treed banks against blue skies.
There was a brief stop to buy Tody, a drink of fermented coconut milk. It tasted like a mix of peanut butter and grass, but not in a good way.
Dinner was chicken, potatoes, roti, curried veggies, and more local rice. After stopping for the night, a few of us decided a swim would be a good idea. I wasn't as scared as I should have been, but the captain said there weren't any alligators, and I had momentarily forgotten about the 10-foot sea snake I saw earlier in the day. The water was amazingly warm... later browsing Google Earth I realized it looked quite shallow and green... preferred by alligators?



It was poker then to bed for a warm but restful night. The next morning was a feast of masala dosa, omelets, and toast and a short ride back to the dock as we compiled one of the best memories India will offer.

See an overlay of our trip stops in google maps.